This is a post I started a long time ago, so some of it is a repeat of events. I just thought I'd leave it mostly as is.
As I wrote before, Kampala, Uganda is a big and congested city, not easily accessible when you're unwilling to ride a bota bota. When Paul left for his week of rural study and break weekend, we too left the city and went to Jinja. After a few days there, we departed and flew back to Zanzibar, Tanzania. Part of me feels like it was a move of weakness, of ease. Part of me struggles with having a 'real' African experience and staying directly within the culture, but that is a whole different topic.
When we were here in Zanzibar before, I met a young Muslim man with a bike on the beach. He stopped to talk to me. We conversed as best we could, he in broken Swahili and me in broken English. The basic conversation was "how do you find it here?" and I said it beautiful and amazing and he wanted to know why, with genuine perplexity. He, himself, had a dream to go to America.
If you are staying at lodging of any type along the beach in Zanzibar, you can't believe how ideal this place is. If you weren't sleeping on your way to and from your lodging, or coming in the dark, you see the truth that lies in the walls of your bit of paradise. The parts of the island "beyond the walls" that I have seen are scrubby with what looks like thin topsoil over dead coral and volcanic rock. Many of the small villages are made of simple buildings, some that are empty and in disrepair, some of cement, some little structures are cobbled together with scraps and what is lived in looks to be very basic. Some people are using open wells for their water. Today we rode borrowed bikes to the nearby village and it was so hot without the sea breeze. People sat in doorways while goats, chicken and children wandered and garbage fluttered. I see how he can dream of a "better place."
From my other discussions with Tanzanians and Ugandans, it is clear that they don't all have a clear idea of the States. Many are as familiar with the geography of the states as Americans are with the geography of Africa, which is to say: not at all.
They can't imagine that anyone is homeless, unless by choice, and think we are all rich. How do I explain to them that many Americans are chasing their own dreams? How Americans are often working to pay for their toys, but not really enjoying it, and that some dream of life like they have here. A life where they can grow food all year round or pull it from the ocean. Who am I to know if it would be better for them? Many here know hardship (and empty bellies or untreated medical conditions) and can mask it as well. There are some who know hardship and ask you for food or some money.
You may imagine, as I did, that the cost of living here is low. Some things are low, I can buy an avocado for 20-50 cents. I can buy chipati (like a tortilla but made of bread and maybe better) for 50-80 cents. I can buy a local meal (chips (fries), rice, casava, sweet potato, or ugali with a side of meat or beans) in Uganda for about 2 dollars. If you want any other foods besides that (or street food) it can be about 8-15 dollars. Gas is more EXPENSIVE than the states. Many people in Tanzania make about 100,000-150,000 TSH (1,500 TSH to 1 US dollar). You can see why people in public positions are open to accepting bribes to supplement their small income.
